Who needs to go to brewing school (much as I’d love to) when there’s Nash and the Brewnosers. I’d be fucked without you all. It would have taken me years to figure that out. I read the water book and was doing the best with the information I had.



Agreed!RubberToe wrote:Right on.
Greg helps us out a lot, we're lucky to have a kick ass brewer like him so involved in the community!
I'm curious as to what the details are. I'd hate to end up with soapy tasting hops. Do you guys mind sharing?and then you "Nashed up" my additions for me and explained why in great detail.
Feel free to share my non-scientific responses, and awful grammar.GuingesRock wrote:I'm very happy if Greg wants to use my brew and chemistry as an example of what he was saying. I shouldn't post a PM though without his permission.
Well, there's your water treatment file back, I Nash'd it up for you. You need to ignore that ratio bullshit to make good beer The question is, how do you want attributes of the beer to be perceived. In a hoppy brew, you want to soften the harsh bitterness that it'd otherwise have, do this with high sulfate content. That sheet and many other places call higher sulfate levels "enhanced bitterness". It doesn't make it more bitter, it'll make it seem less bitter or simply seem to be a softer bitterness, more well integrated perhaps. You also don't want hops tasting like detergent or soap, do this with high sulfate content also. Chloride lends a full round mouthfeel, it enhances sweetness, none of which I want in an IPA so leave CaCl out of it. Again, ignore the ratio stuff. Try to get the mineral contents up to where they should be for proper enzymatic and yeast growth/activity while gearing the beer toward how you want it to taste, not per any ratio or PH. Get the PH in line with acids or acidulated malt.
IMO Hop stands may be a waste of time too. Just drop those hops in after the wort drops to 180 F, and just keep right on cooling. No need to leave them sit there for a 'stand' period of time, 5 minutes in the temp zone will 'soften' them so just keep cooling. Other than that you're just losing precious volatiles.
Not sure when I'll be seeing Jeff again but he sent a text to let me know you dropped some beer, so thanks. I'm sure it won't be too long before I see him again. I hope you're having a great weekend as well
G
Oh you're welcome, happy to help. Just try to keep the sulfate up over 200 ppm on the hoppy brews, generally you want most of that derived from CaSO4. Acid malt is good. You'll be able to tweak the quantity in using the PH meter. If you change malts or use different amounts of specialty malts in recipes it'll change the PH a little too. So don't assume 1 lb in every batch, etc. Once you get things in line you'll just need to bust out the ph meter now and then to double check things are staying in line.
You'll want to pull a small wort sample from the mash and cool it to get a reading with that meter, you should only stick something like that into the mash if it has automatic temp compensation and I'm pretty sure those ones do not. Even with my auto compensating meter I still cool a sample since the auto function never really seems to be that accurate. So mash in, get it all stirred up, rest 5 mins then pull a sample.
About the same as most mashes other than sour, generally speaking between 5.1 and 5.5. Fine tune that to 5.2-3 or so.GuingesRock wrote:Thanks! It's 12 gal batch, but I think you saw that already. What's a nice PH for an IPA please?
Thanks very much.NASH wrote:About the same as most mashes other than sour, generally speaking between 5.1 and 5.5. Fine tune that to 5.2-3 or so.GuingesRock wrote:Thanks! It's 12 gal batch, but I think you saw that already. What's a nice PH for an IPA please?
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