Electric Kettle/Primary Fermentor/Integral Whirlpool Cooling

[GuingesRock]

I'm going to have to get off my ass and start using liquid yeast. I would have loved to have some of the Conan but not currently set up for liquid yeast.

How can I aerate wort in this thing? It is whirlpool chilled, can I feed a bit of air into the line going from the pump to the pot near the end of the chill? Should I drill another hole in the pot for another small valve and bubble air in with an aquarium pump and a micron filter? or figure out where to get a tank of O2 and bubble that in? Would a tank of O2 be the best way? How do the small commercial setups do it?

The wort is not transferred, and is fermented in the same container as it is boiled in, so splashing into a fermentor, shaking etc. isn't an option.

[Keggermeister]

Get yourself an o2 tank and a sintered stone. You can get wand types and in-line.
If I were you, I'd chill it all down and then recirculate and oxygenate through an in-line stone. The beauty of the in-line is that is is sanitized with everything else. This runs with your theme.
I'd put a ball valve on the gas inlet so it doesn't drip wort when brewing. Just leave it open when cleaning so that it drips cleaner when cleaning.


http://morebeer.com/search?search=oxygen+stone

[GuingesRock]

Thanks for the info. I was looking around for diffusion stones and I saw that Everwood has those inline ones: https://www.everwoodavebrewshop.com/pro ... -assembly/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and also OBK: http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/SearchRe ... mit=Search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If I installed one into the pot, it would also get sanitised by the boil, but can't find the right fitting. Maybe the inline one would be good. Or perhaps one on the end of a silicone tube and dunk it in 15 minutes before the end of the boil to make sure it's sanitised.

Where do people get oxygen? Canadian tyre? How long do you bubble O2 through? 1 minute?

Thanks

[RubberToe]

Either something like this that attaches to the disposable O2 welding tanks (about $10 each): http://morebeer.com/products/oxygenatio ... ystem.html, a welding O2 tank and regulator, or a medical O2 tank and regulator.

A few of us did a group buy of medical O2 tanks a while ago. Mine cost about $80 and cost $8 to fill and will last a long, long, long time. I found a medical O2 flow rate regulator on ebay. I actually have another but it needs a different adapter.

[RubberToe]

BTW I use a wand and a 2 micron stone to oxygenate after transferring the wort into the carboys. I'm looking into an inline system using that stone from Dave.

Edit: I'd prefer a 0.5 micron stone. The tanks can push the O2 through no prob, it's aquarium tanks that would have a problem with the 0.5.

[AllanMar]

I have a setup for an in-line and I have a wand setup. Since I'm using the mini torch tanks (Canadian tire/etc) I use the wand as those regs are really tough to control flow rates. If your going to do inline IMHO you need decent flow rate control (welding o2 tank/regulator or medical o2 tank/regulator).

Dosage times based on flow are in the Brewing elements yeast book from what I recall.

You're going to need a lot of liquid yeast/starter to match the pitching rates you mentioned doing with dry yeast.

[GuingesRock]

Get yourself an o2 tank and a sintered stone. You can get wand types and in-line.
If I were you, I'd chill it all down and then recirculate and oxygenate through an in-line stone. The beauty of the in-line is that is is sanitized with everything else. This runs with your theme.
I'd put a ball valve on the gas inlet so it doesn't drip wort when brewing. Just leave it open when cleaning so that it drips cleaner when cleaning.


http://morebeer.com/search?search=oxygen+stone

After the discussion on this thread and here (thanks), I think the inline oxygenating stone, (picture posted by Keggermeister above) is the way to go with this setup. I can boil it whenever I like (might take of the thermometer so I can do that ...actually I think I'll just buy a stone, a 1/2" female Tee and a couple of quick disconnects and make my own), and the hot wort will sanitize when I’m circulating at higher temps, once it is chilled I can turn on the O2.


Thanks for all the help.



https://www.everwoodavebrewshop.com/pro ... e-1-2-npt/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[GuingesRock]

Two weeks ago I finished my all in 0ne, boil kettle, fermentor, with integral whirlpool wort chilling, and fermentation temperature control, by making it an e version with the addition of a boil coil.

Works well. Had to change the lead on the boil coil (used a #12 wire extension cord I had) as it came with some ridiculous plug on it. It's the 110V 2225W version so it works well in my 20A 110V GFI socket that I wired in. They want the boil coil to be made not live before unplugging to avoid arcing, so I use the GFI switch to turn off the power before unplugging.

With the ceramic hot plate working together with boil coil I have around 5000 watts and now can get to the boil from mash temp in about 35 mins. Once at the boil I turn off the hot plate and just use the boil coil, thus I don't need any kind of controller with this setup.

[chalmers]

Looking slick! Is this the Blichmann Boil Coil, or another similar item?

[GuingesRock]

Thanks, It's the Blichmann that finally became available.

[jtmwhyte]

This is a super cool build Mark! How do you accurately control fermentation temperature with this setup?

[GuingesRock]

Trevor, thanks. During the first 2 - 3 days of active fermentation I run cold water through the internal coil three times a day ...when I get up, after work and before bed. It will go a bit above and I will take it a bit below where I want it to be. After the active part of fermentation I will leave it go where it wants to. With conan for example you have to do that, otherwise it takes forever to finish. With the Irish stout I just made, traditionally fermentation at the Guinness factory is warm and fast. 48 hrs at 25C, so that's what I did, and it's turned out great. I was using the supposedly Guinness yeast.

The Yeast Bay Vermont Ale

Isolated from a uniquely crafted double IPA out of the Northeastern United States, this yeast produces a balanced fruity ester profile of peaches and light citrus that complements any aggressively hopped beer. Expect this strain to take off fast and ferment wort quickly, though elevating the temperature following the bulk of fermentation may be required to raise the attenuation.

In order to achieve high attenuation, we recommend fermenting at 67-69°F for 3-4 days, and then raising the temperature to 72°F until a stable gravity is reached.

Temperature: 66-70°F
Attenuation: 72-80%
Flocculation: Medium-Low

http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/The_Yeas ... nt-ale.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;