Looking at Electric Pilot Systems

[NASH]

Just looking for some opinions here...

Buddy of mine is looking for an electric brewing system, possibly a 5 gallon but 10 gallon would be better, it could be a single vessel or a double/triple setup. What are the best prefab options out there that some of you have seen?

If anyone is interested in building one he is possibly up for that as well

[mr x]

Not many prefab options on the kettle/element side out there last I looked. There are DIY heater element controls from under $100 to $2000 for a full panel of shit. Depends on the level of competence/safety required. For example, I don't use a GFI on my kettle, which is savings of probably $200 for a 230Vac unit.

[GAM]

I have one or two heat sticks I have never used. He can try them and keep them or I could help make new ones.

Sandy

[LiverDance]

This is DIY but it's \everything you'll need for sale in one spot (Ottawa) http://theelectricbrewery.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; .

[mr x]

Yeah, that was one of the prefab units I was thinking of from one of the MOB guys. It's nice, but has some overkill features that add to cost. And I'm not sure that the connectors/cabling/elements are included. Hundreds additional there if not. By the way, do not use the instruction on that site for installing the element in the kettle.

[RubberToe]

By the way, do not use the instruction on that site for installing the element in the kettle.

Why not? I was planning on doing mine that way, but if there's a better way I'd like to check it out.

Thanks,
-Rob

[mr x]

The element face doesn't have a sealing surface. That's guaranteed to leak without the sealant - that point is not an 'additional safeguard'. IMHO, depending on that sealant to hold is a bad idea that will fail you at the worst possible moment. Your best method gasket/o-ring between the element face and the kettle. Nothing in between.

[RubberToe]

Your best method gasket/o-ring between the element face and the kettle. Nothing in between.

So basically move the gasket to inside the kettle wall underneath the locknut? That would be just like my other weldless bulkheads (temp probe and ball valve). And I see your point.

[mr x]

No, the gasket needs to be between the element hexhead and the outside kettle wall as those threads are not npt type. The original rubber gasket that comes with the element is probably enough to get the job done.