1 Brew = 2 Beers?

[GuingesRock]

I brew 10 gallons each time, but I don’t necessarily need 10 gallons of the same beer. I’d rather have two different beers, 5 gallons each. One reason is so I can have more styles to send off to competitions with less brewing.

I had some ideas but wondered if anyone else had some suggestions.

1) Half the batch could be a blonde ale or a wheat beer and the other half a fruit beer by adding raspberries to the secondary.

2) Lager half the batch and make the other half an ale. I’m not sure what style the ale would be.

3) I could make my Working Man mild again, but this time steep the jasmine flowers separately (rather than adding them to the end of the boil) and add the tea to the secondary for half the batch.

[Keith]

3) Suck it up and brew 20 gals.

[Keith]

Bag lick I swear that was a 4

[GuingesRock]

3) Suck it up and brew 20 gals.

Bit grumpy today Keith? long day at work ahead? I know how you feel.

[LeafMan66_67]

When I'm brewing 10G, it's always split into two fermenters. That leaves the options open for experimentation - two different yeasts, sprinkle dry vs rehydrate, aerate vs no aerate, two different fruit beer, etc. After that, different dry hops in the kegs, force carb vs carb with corn sugar.

I like the ability to do controlled experimentation and end up with two slightly different beer.

[Keith]

Lol nah not cranky at all. Just tormenting. Splitting on yeasts and fruit are both viable options.

[GAM]

Kolsh and a lager would be a simple run.

Sandy

[amartin]

You could also just make any beer, and split it between two yeasts. They might not be completely different beers, but it'd give you an idea of how the two yeasts worked and tasted.

[Celiacbrew]

What about boiling your hops separately and then after doing the boil with the base beer, dump off five gallons into a bucket to chill plus add your hop extract. Then with the remainder chill down below 170 and add some specialty grains to the mix to jazz it up. Sort of a modified partiguile. A blonde could be turned into a dry stout for instance. Or a Pilsner into a schwarzbier. An American pale ale could become an ESB. This is assuming you only have the one kettle.

[Woody]

I've often thought of doing two Belgian styles and when the boil is done transfer half of the wort out and add Belgian candy sugar to up the gavity etc and pitch two separate yeast. Or keep the boil going on the first part and late hop with Amarillo & Citra for an IPA. It would take more time with two separate cooling's but I love Belgians and need to try it sometime.

[GuingesRock]

What about boiling your hops separately and then after doing the boil with the base beer, dump off five gallons into a bucket to chill plus add your hop extract. Then with the remainder chill down below 170 and add some specialty grains to the mix to jazz it up. Sort of a modified partiguile. A blonde could be turned into a dry stout for instance. Or a Pilsner into a schwarzbier. An American pale ale could become an ESB. This is assuming you only have the one kettle.

That's interesting. Also I hadn't thought about hop extracts. Can they be added to the secondary? Not sure where you get them from.

[GuingesRock]

Kolsh and a lager would be a simple run.

Sandy

That's the ale that would work with a lager split. Thanks.

[LiverDance]

You can also split the batch and use the same yeast but At 2 different temps to see the differences


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[jacinthebox]

I just split a batch of Dos Amigo...half reg Dos the other half Raspberry.

we aled half of a dos batch...and lagered the other half

we also did this with 3 Scots & A Frenchman by changing the yeast

[Celiacbrew]

That's interesting. Also I hadn't thought about hop extracts. Can they be added to the secondary? Not sure where you get them from.

I've heard this from a couple of sources, but basically it is boil water add hops. The extraction is much faster and more complete because the pH of water is higher than wort. Some people say it is more harsh, so they recommend you add some DME to the liquid. This mr wizard post explains it as proteins in the boiling wort strip out phenols https://byo.com/grains/item/610-extract ... -mr-wizard" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Here is a guy who uses a pressure cooker to do it in 15 mins. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/bittering-h ... nutes.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and lastly you can buy cans of extract from here http://www.hoptech.com/collections/hop-oils-extracts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or from here http://www.morebeer.com/products/isohop ... -1-oz.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the whole oil products are basically hops hit with some liquid CO2 to pull out everything that isn't fibre. I don't know how they make the isomerized hop products. The isomerized ones could be added to the secondary and you would get bitterness. The whole oil products could be added to the secondary but you wouldn't get any bitterness, they need to be boiled to get that. Well to get substantial levels of bitterness they need to be boiled.

[jason.loxton]

If you don't mind doing a double boil, then your options are greatly expanded. You can go partygyle: boil your first and second runnings for two different gravity beers. The second beer can be radically altered by adding additional steepable speciality malts to the mash tun before sparging, e.g., pull off a big IPA on first run and a mild or English brown on second, etc.

https://byo.com/grains/item/1963-parti- ... techniques" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[spuds]

There was an interesting recipe in the Brew your own mag from December from Anchor brewing. First runnings were used to for Old Foghorn at 10%. Second runnings were used to make their Small beer at 3.3%. Hops would be different for both, yeast as well if you wish. Just an idea.

[RubberToe]

Some that come to mind:

Kolsch / Saison / Lager / Belgian
Altbier / ESB (Close enough? Use the right yeasts) / Dubbel (maybe add some candi to that one)
Any lager vs ale
American or English IPA / Belgian IPA

[gm-]

Some that come to mind:

Kolsch / Saison / Lager / Belgian
Altbier / ESB (Close enough? Use the right yeasts) / Dubbel (maybe add some candi to that one)
Any lager vs ale
American or English IPA / Belgian IPA

Good list, you can add cream ale to the top one if you use US-05, so you could get 5 different beers from one batch. Simple grain bill with Pilsner malt and maybe some munich/vienna and carapils, and then 5 different yeasts/fermentation schedules.

One more to that list: APA / American Farmhouse, did that last fall, turned out well.

Parti-gyle is a fun method as well. I've made American Barleywine/APA that way, RIS/American stout, English IPA/Standard bitter. I set it up so I would get 3 gal of the strong beer that I bottled, and 5 gal of the lighter second runnings beer that I kegged.

[RubberToe]

Awesome. I'll probably try an American Farmhouse myself.

[GAM]

With one boil you could do a DIPA and water down some for a pale ale.

Sandy

[Keith]

With one boil you could do a DIPA and water down some for a pale ale.

Sandy

You know some people get shot for less.

[GuingesRock]

That's interesting. Also I hadn't thought about hop extracts. Can they be added to the secondary? Not sure where you get them from.

I've heard this from a couple of sources, but basically it is boil water add hops. The extraction is much faster and more complete because the pH of water is higher than wort. Some people say it is more harsh, so they recommend you add some DME to the liquid. This mr wizard post explains it as proteins in the boiling wort strip out phenols https://byo.com/grains/item/610-extract ... -mr-wizard" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Here is a guy who uses a pressure cooker to do it in 15 mins. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/bittering-h ... nutes.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and lastly you can buy cans of extract from here http://www.hoptech.com/collections/hop-oils-extracts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or from here http://www.morebeer.com/products/isohop ... -1-oz.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the whole oil products are basically hops hit with some liquid CO2 to pull out everything that isn't fibre. I don't know how they make the isomerized hop products. The isomerized ones could be added to the secondary and you would get bitterness. The whole oil products could be added to the secondary but you wouldn't get any bitterness, they need to be boiled to get that. Well to get substantial levels of bitterness they need to be boiled.

Thanks for the information Mike.

Lots of great stuff in this thread. Just had a chance to read it all.

[Buccaneer]

Wow, the timing of this topic couldn't be better. I've been doing 5 gal batches, but I've been thinking of shrinking the batch sizes so that I could brew more often and get in more experimentation. The idea of taking a regular sized batch and splitting it (in the fermenter, runnings, whatever) is fantastic, especially when it comes to figuring out how different yeasts work/taste, the effects of dry hopping, adding fruit/cocoa/additives, etc.

I shall be following this with keen interest.

[anewton]

Partigyle that batch. Especially since you have a mild you like, you could try upping the mash so the first runnings make something stonger and the seconds make your mild. Classic technique, different beers.