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Maritime Drinker - On the Road
Tue, 6 Jul 1999
by Jeffrey Pinhey
No, this edition is not about drinking and driving. Recently, I made a couple of voyages to visit both of my brothers, in their new homes, to play golf and, well, sample the local fare.
Saint John New Brunswick
Saint John is a true blue collar town where people want to know which Moosehead beer you drink, and Labatts fight to get your dollar with various disguised labels. Nevertheless, some inroads in the name of better beer are being made, though I understand it is, and has been, a fight. My visit was only brief, but was highlighted by a visit to Churchill's, a nice pub below a steakhouse, right in the downtown. Located down a laneway this pub featured (for me, anyway) Picaroons Red and Stout on tap. Both were excellent pints, and the staff seemed to understand that some people want to drink something other than ice cold factory beer. Although, they did have one of those new fangled super cooled "cobra" taps for Keith's or Bud or something.
We also visited the city's only brew pub, Taps, where we were treated to good beers, (an IPA is well remembered) and I was also able to try a guest beer, Picaroons' Whale Ale, on tap. This place is a must visit for the beer drinker visiting Saint John.
I would be remiss if I did not point out that the best beer in the City was my brother Craig's bitter, on tap in his palacious basement.
Calgary Alberta
A more ambitious visit, both golf and beer wise, I spent 9 days in the land of red necks and blue skies. There has been a long running track record of good beer in Calgary ever since the 1988 winter Olympics, when visitors to the town stumbled on real beer, in the form of Big Rock, and helped turn a marginal struggling business, into a major local brewery. Europeans soon dropped pallid blue-like swill for the more flavourful beers offered by Big Rock. Since then, Big Rock has developed many (too many IMHO) new brands, and has had reasonable success selling beer into the US market. They have recently added a canning line to their operation.
Here is a summary of my tastings of various beers available in Alberta. Note that the liquor distribution system is "semi-private" with the government still controlling the importation of products, but private retailing competing with government retailing. Some stores offer excellent selection, others only stock swill. It has basically turned out to be a boon for those who like wine, but the availability of imported beers is limited - I did not find a store where one could buy, say, lambics or Trappists. I did find excellent availability of micro-brewery products from Alberta and BC, with some representation from Ontario and the Yukon.
Big Rock
McNally's Irish Ale
It is appropriate to begin any discussion of Alberta beers with this, the flagship of Big Rock's operation. Named after founder and owner, Ed McNally, this beer is a full bodied, malt dominated rich red ale, with just enough hops to provide some balance through to the middle of the tasting experience. The beer finishes malty and sweet, but there is enough bitter and roast flavour to make you want more. At 7% alcohol, this can be dangerous. A classic since it was released, the beer is still a winner. It was rated the fifth best beer I tasted on this trip.
Wart Hog
A clean pale ale, low hopping, but enough to cut the sweetness of the malt, this beer, tasted after a round of golf on a muggy day, hit the spot. I enjoyed this far better than...
Traditional
The market leader, apparently, in the Alberta micro industry, this beer was available everywhere, or just about. Locals ask for a "trad". The beer is short on hops, and the clean yeast strain used by Big Rock leaves the drinker with a desire for more complexity. There is a caramel dominated flavour profile that reminds me of a low hopped kit beer (well made, but forgettable). In contrast to mainstream beers, of course, this is far better, I had just hoped (hopped) for more from it.
Grasshopper
A wheat ale (note - not a weizen) was available in many pubs and at the ballfield (Triple A farm team for the Marlins, the Calgary Cannons). Great in the heat, not pretentious, and thirst quenching.
Chinook Pale Ale
A new beer (to me, anyway) promised more than Trad. It is "dry hopped" and has a Chinook Salmon on the label (a nice label too). The beer disappointed, however, tasting like traditional with some dry hopping (very dry) that did not form an integrated part of the beer's overall flavour profile, tasting, instead, like an afterthought, perhaps accomplished using hop extract (like Clancy's Harvest Ale). Again, good beer, but a disappointment.
Kold
It seems Big Rock wish to compete with the "less is more beers", and have released a thing they call "Kold". It is in silver cans and labels (can you spell Coors?) with essentially no hops to cut the malty sweetness, this beer fails in its goal of providing a thirst quencher. Made me reach for the icewater to clean my palate. Lager crispiness does have its place on a hot day, if you can't find a wheat beer.
Other Big Rock Brands
Other Big Rock brands include Magpie Rye, Canvasback Ale, Dark Ale, Lite, and some brewed under contract for certain bars.
Brew Brothers
A new (again, for me) micro in Calgary, Brew Brothers brewing Company offered three beers, of which I have had two. I missed the Tumblewheat (neat name) which my brother Scott recommends. The Alberta Gold, a helles bock was tasted at a recent BrewNosers meeting (thanks Chris) and found to be very good. Prairie Steam, found on tap in two places, and best at the Sovereign House on 14th St. near Kensington (new, so even Calgarians might not know where it is) was excellent, with some of the hops most Alberta beers miss. The fourth best beer I tasted.
Earl's
At Earl's downtown on the walking street mall, they have a custom brew called Albino Rhino, made by Big Rock. I did not try this, but I believe it is similar to Wart Hog. They also has two beers from The Bear Brewing Company, Polar Bear Pale Ale was clean, malty, with some esters and hops making an easy to drink, but "safe" beer. Their Christmas Pudding beer, a porter like creation with cherries, was nice, but needed more fruit to really make its name. That was dessert.
James Warner Brewing Co.
James Warner Brewing Co., another new micro, offered up a couple of beers of which I sampled the Rainmaker Pale Ale. Another pale ale in need of hops, this beer was clean, and good, but offered nothing special for the beer drinker that they cannot get from any number of the other micros in the marketplace.
Okangan Springs
Now a part of the Sleemans growing empire, had two beers available in local stores, the Pale Ale and Porter. The pale ale was basically of the same type discussed above (Wart Hog, Rainmaker, Polar Bear etc ) . The Porter is another thing altogether, with its 8.5% alcohol content, and enough body to match that making it the best Porter in Canada. Not to be missed, the sixth best beer tasted.
The Chilkoot Brewing Company
The Chilkoot Brewing Company in White Horse, Yukon, had three brews in the stores, an amber ale, not tried, a pale ale (tried in a past date bottle, could be better than the local generic underhopped style, but tasted like it was not) and Fireweed Honey Ale, which I liked, the honey providing some estery balance to the malt, still crying for more hops.
The Alley Cat Brewery
The Alley Cat Brewery in Edmonton provided the best beer I tried. Alley Cat Full Moon Pale Ale on tap at Original Joe's was excellent, with a wonderful balance between malt and hops and a fresh hop aroma and easy finish. This beer simply tasted like more. In the bottle it was still great, but the tap version is not to be missed. (Original Joe's is opening another pub on Kensington, currently Panchos, in August). On the other end of the spectrum, Alley Cat's appropriately named "Redneck" tasted like it was made to try to sell beer to rednecks.
Bottlescrew Bills
Bottlescrew Bills pub, attached to Buzzards Restaurant, has a great beer selection, and a custom brewed beer by Big Rock called Buzzard's Breath, which is bottled for export. BB is good, with just enough more hops to give it an edge on the trad. Similar to Wart Hog, but with more caramel.
Tree Brewing Company
Tree Brewing Company's amber ale was a very good example of the style, and with the exception of its benefitting from more hops, exhibited an excellent malt flavour - I think from a British yeast strain, that set it above others of this ilk in the market. (on tap at Original Joe's)
Wild Rose Brewing Co.
Wild Rose Brewing Co. provides keg only beers, including the Wild Rose Brown, a rich chocolatey brown ale, more appropriate for colder weather than I was experiencing, and Wild Rose Raspberry, very appropriate for the weather I experienced. Similar to Garrison's recent Raspberry Wheat release.
Peak Brewing Company
Peak Brewing Company, the new name for Banff Brewing and Bow Valley brewing post merger, have several lager products on the market. When I was in town, there was still some Banff product available called Cutthroat Lager, which was malty, maerzen like beer. The sample I had was a bit funky, possibly due to age (at the Barley Mill, downtown Calgary, a good place to find a beer there).
Nelson Brewing Company
Nelson Brewing Company a BC micro provided me with the second best beer tasted - Paddywhacker IPA had hops and malt, with only a slight imbalance. Great beer, and fearless use of hops.
Brewpubs
Brewpubs visited, included The Wildwood (formerly the Mission) where the stout was good (a bit of diacetyl, but those of you who know me, know that it is probably OK for you) and a great pint of bitter the third best beer tasted , called Bugaboo Bitter. Nice place, downstairs of a popular restaurant, across the street from a very good Indian restaurant.
Also visited was the Grizzly Paw Brewpub in Canmore (post Kananaskis golf) where the Palliser Pale Ale and Rutting Elk Red met with approval, but not with acclaim from those who had been there before. I noted some phenols that suggested a wild yeast problem, and on discussion with the brewer learned that they still use a dried yeast, which may explain the inconsistency described by my fellow patrons, whose previous visit found the beers incredibly good. The place is worth a visit, hope you find the beers in top form.
Summary
In summary, pale ales in Alberta and eastern BC do not reflect the proximity of the hop fields in the Okangan and northwest US. A caramel malt dominated pale ale is the current typical style, most commonly typified by Big Rock Traditional. Those breweries that have ventured outside this envelope attracted me the most, partly because of their being different, and mostly because they used hops, yeast, or roasted malts to achieve some complexity.
As it currently sits, if you only have tie to visit one place in Calgary for a beer, I'd go to Original Joe's. I am told I missed one place (Hop and something, closer downtown), but Original Joes had good selection, folk music, and informed staff. Plus they had the best beer in town, Alley Cat Full Moon, on tap, in addition to a full complement of other micros on tap and in bottle.
Jeff
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