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Hey guys. I'm not much for electrical knowledge so I'm reaching out for help. I'm planning to build a new brew system but want to keep it pretty simple. Can anyone tell me how big of an element I can run on this? http://www.amazon.com/Control-Products- ... s_indust_6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It's rated for 20A on Amazon here but I've read online it is actually capable of 30A.

Can I run a 2000 watt or even a 2500 watt element?

Are you looking to control the boil? That controller may not be what you're looking for. How large is your pre-boil volume. I have a super simple electric setup that runs 220v (dryer outlet) but I'm pretty sure the same seller I got my "controller" from does have 120v models.

Maybe this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110v-220V-20 ... 2c7271ac22" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Though mine is just a brew kettle as I use a cooler MLT. The controller you posted would be used to regulate temperature in a fermentation chamber or keezer afaiac.


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I am certain those types of controllers can be used to heat. I have five of the Johnson A419 models on my farm running water heaters. They have relays on them to handle that much power. I was looking at this model because it can handle 20A when the Johnson A419 can only handle 15A without relay.

I originally wanted to build a 220V SSR unit to run a 5500 watt element and a pump control but I'm a little intimidated on the wiring side. Anyone have a writing diagram for something like that?

They can be used to heat, but what exactly do you want to heat, to make sure you are matching gear to application.

I am building a single vessel BIAB type system. Usually will do single 5g batches but will be big enough to do double batch (10g). I want to be able to hold mash in the mid 150'sF and be able to boil. I was hopping to be able to operate a 2500 watt element on this 20A controller. What do you think X? Am I better off to build 220V PID and go with bigger element?

I'm moving this to the biab section. Might get better help there.

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Thanks

Ok it looks like the largest element you can run on 110V is 2000watts. Not really big enough for what I need. Looks like I'm into 220V PID territory. Anyone have any wiring diagrams to share?

I found this wiring diagram online. Any input out there? Anyone built something like this?

Assuming a breaker that trips at 15 amps, you can run 1750W at 115vac max, ie, a standard 1500w element. You could run two elements off two separate circuits.

I believe a few guys here have built those.

So would I need two separate controls? Could I use the dual relay model TC-9102 ?

Parts are all ordered for above diagram. Consulted with an engineering friend so I feel pretty confident about it now. Bought a 64 liter brew pot and a 32 liter pot for submersible mash basket.

Mash basket is ready and bulkhead installed in pot. Parts for the PID controller are starting to arrive. Can't wait to put it all together.

Collecting parts and making progress. I am following the diagram above.

Looking good!

Barr wrote:Mash basket is ready and bulkhead installed in pot. Parts for the PID controller are starting to arrive. Can't wait to put it all together.

Are you recirculating with that setup? If not I'd be a little concerned about some loss of efficiency because of the dead space around the mash basket where the water isn't in contact with the grain. Might be worth it for other advantages of using the basket.

...looks good.

Yeah I am going to be recirculating through the top lid as you can see in this pic. The wort will then be diffused through holes in the mash basket lid. Not really worried about hot side aeration in the mash stage. Dr.Bamforth says that most of that O2 should come out in boil.

I have a hand crank set up to lift the mash basket out. Then I'm hoping to build a curved pipe for the inside of the top lid for a whirlpool. Exciting to build from ground up. Thanks for the questions. Please keep them coming as I'm sure there are things I haven't thought of.

Just a couple little finishing touches like clamps, labels and a measured mash paddle and I'm ready to roll. Excited and nervous. Had a few long delays due to not ordering the right temp probe but finally ready.

Wet test. Checking for leaks and seeing how the water recirculates through the mash tub lid. I think I need a valve on top in order to slow down the flow.

Holes in the mash tun lid are supposed to diffuse water evenly. Right now there is a little water flowing over the edge of the lid but I think if I can throttle it back to about 2/3 the flow it should work great. Any input guys?

Should I put the valve on the lid or on the out side of the pump? How do people usually throttle back flow with a brew pump? I'm new in this dept.

Barr wrote:Should I put the valve on the lid or on the out side of the pump? How do people usually throttle back flow with a brew pump? I'm new in this dept.

On the outlet of the pump.

I think you'd risk over-pressurizing and bursting the length of hose that runs from the pump outlet to the lid if you put the valve on the lid.

Good point. This pump business is new to me. Thanks.

Setup looks good, nice work!

It's alive!!! Powered up and didn't blow up. Now I realized I have no idea how to operate this PID.