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Element doesn't come with it, just a 2" tri-clover port so you can add whatever element you want.mr x wrote:Interesting, but I think I would like a SS element if it was in there for the ferment. As far as cleaning - hot water, caustic, and acid, same as a big boy brewery.
It doesn't really show it well in the video, but you still use a controller with the setup the same as you would with any other electric setup.GuingesRock wrote:Watching the video. My valves are very close to the pot so the heat will sanitize them. Looks like they didn't do that.
That's a hell of a boil and you can't turn it down.
Everything on top of the lid is connected via quick disconnect tri-clover clamps. You can throw all the connections/valves in a bucket of sanitizer, and you can then sanitize the lid however you'd like.GuingesRock wrote:The lid with all those contraptions attached will be hard to sanitize. I have a simple lid I put in the oven to sanitize.
That was one of my concerns, but it's still doable. It would likely be via some type of return built into the lid as I wouldn't want to screw with the walls of the conical.GuingesRock wrote:To chill the wort with the jacket, I think it still should have a whirlpool. It's fine without for fermentation temperature control.
first thing I thought of as well.mr x wrote:Interesting, but I think I would like a SS element if it was in there for the ferment.
I have some TriClamp butterfly and some TriClamp Ball valves, the butterfly are way better IMHO and worth the extra cost. They also have the benefit of being CIP.GuingesRock wrote:My concern with ball valves is they have areas around behind the ball that sanitisers can't reach. then when you turn on the ball valve you introduce a festering culture from the previous brew/brews.
I don't know much about the risks, causes, etc., this is a response they had regarding this issue:LiverDance wrote:first thing I thought of as well.mr x wrote:Interesting, but I think I would like a SS element if it was in there for the ferment.
I'd still probably go with a stainless element if I got this."The black heating rods on both the 4500W and 5500W models are made from the highest Grade Nickel and Chromium Incoloy which is high temperature and corrosion resistant. It is essentially a mix of premium grade nickel and stainless steel. Incoloy is about 8 times more expensive, lighter, and more corrosion resistant than standard 304/316 stainless steel.
These heating elements are principally installed in home water heaters used in potable water systems. Tens of thousands are most likely in use worldwide in hot water tanks built by American, A.O. Smith, Bradford White, Craftmaster, General Electric, GS Wood, Kenmore, Lochinvar, Maytag, Mor-Flo, Reliance, Rheem, Richmond, Ruud, Sears, State, and Whirlpool Heaters, to name a few."
Since the plug is not made of stainless steel, the only concern would be rust, however, a protective coating will form on the element base after a few uses. While leaving a heating element in water of an open/aerated vessel such as the HLT can encourage rusting, in the 3-in-1, the boiling and subsequent fermentation removes oxygen from the vessel so any oxidation is negligible and leaving the element in for the duration of the fermentation does not pose a problem. We have brewed many batches with the 3-in-1 and have yet to notice any rust scale forming on the plug. With a new element we did notice some oxidation, particularly in the first few batches where the plug surface and the yeast that settled nearest the plug was darkened but after the second or third batch this darkening of the yeast had largely disappeared as a dark protective coating formed on the surface of the plug.
I don't know much about elements either but aren't you supposed to keep cleaning them well so you don't get scorching. If you cleaned the element, then would you end up at square one again with the black staining of the yeast (not sure I like the sound of that) Did you check out the density of the element?With a new element we did notice some oxidation, particularly in the first few batches where the plug surface and the yeast that settled nearest the plug was darkened but after the second or third batch this darkening of the yeast had largely disappeared as a dark protective coating formed on the surface of the plug.
I'm not sure about the scorching, but I think the spot they refer to is not the actual element itself, but the "butt" where the element is attached.GuingesRock wrote:I don't know much about elements either but aren't you supposed to keep cleaning them well so you don't get scorching. If you cleaned the element, then would you end up at square one again with the black staining of the yeast (not sure I like the sound of that) Did you check out the density of the element?With a new element we did notice some oxidation, particularly in the first few batches where the plug surface and the yeast that settled nearest the plug was darkened but after the second or third batch this darkening of the yeast had largely disappeared as a dark protective coating formed on the surface of the plug.
Shane purchased these ones - not sure if this is "pure" or notAllanMar wrote:If anyone finds a good source for pure SS elements, id be interested.
WTF is a mashtoon?Jimmy wrote:
THanks, those seem pretty good. Unfortunately the sizes don't work for me (other then the ripple).Jimmy wrote:Shane purchased these ones - not sure if this is "pure" or notAllanMar wrote:If anyone finds a good source for pure SS elements, id be interested.
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