How do you oxygenate your beers
Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 12:21 pm
Right now i'm using the shake the shit out of the bucket method, how about you?
Atlantic Canada Based Homebrew & Beer Appreciation Club
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You mean the little disposable O2 tanks?mr x wrote:I had been buying the little red bottles at HH/CT/PA, but they are such a rip off. I have been trying to justify buying a larger bottle from one of the gas suppliers...
Yup.moxie wrote:You mean the little disposable O2 tanks?mr x wrote:I had been buying the little red bottles at HH/CT/PA, but they are such a rip off. I have been trying to justify buying a larger bottle from one of the gas suppliers...
Nash is the person with the best experience on this one, but I don't think you'll get oxidation problems with O2 and dry yeast, or any other yeast. I think you'd have to oxygenate at an incredibly insane level to wind up with residual O2. And long before then you'd have other significant issues....jason.loxton wrote:As I understand it, yeast use the O2 when synthesizing membrane components required for cell division/budding (i.e., during the growth stage of fermentation only). A larger starter would reduce the amount of O2 needed, but not eliminate it (cell counts still need to increase substantially in the wort to reach proper levels, unless one were to use an insanely large starter, which would interfere with the production of esters and other desirable compounds that are produced during growth). Supposedly, dry yeast are grown aeorbically and have a sufficient buffer of lipids built in during production to grow properly if pitched at correct rates, and in a moderate gravity beer, without additional O2. I would think then that if one was using dry yeast and aerating (especially with pure O2) they could run into oxidation issues with unused residual O2 post-fermentation. (I bought Jamil's yeast book, and I am sure it will answer all of these questions, but I have barely cracked it. If anyone wants to borrow it, I probably won't get around to reading it for a bit.)
But I may not know what I am talking about...
Hmm. That is some interesting info. So if I understand you correctly, a large starter or heavy O2 would be ideal conditions if the goal is a super neutral fermentation. Until now I have been aerating wort the same way for every style I brew.jason.loxton wrote:As I understand it, yeast use the O2 when synthesizing membrane components required for cell division/budding (i.e., during the growth stage of fermentation only). A larger starter would reduce the amount of O2 needed, but not eliminate it (cell counts still need to increase substantially in the wort to reach proper levels, unless one were to use an insanely large starter, which would interfere with the production of esters and other desirable compounds that are produced during growth). Supposedly, dry yeast are grown aeorbically and have a sufficient buffer of lipids built in during production to grow properly if pitched at correct rates, and in a moderate gravity beer, without additional O2. I would think then that if one was using dry yeast and aerating (especially with pure O2) they could run into oxidation issues with unused residual O2 post-fermentation. (I bought Jamil's yeast book, and I am sure it will answer all of these questions, but I have barely cracked it. If anyone wants to borrow it, I probably won't get around to reading it for a bit.)
But I may not know what I am talking about...
I would love to borrow it for a day or two.jason.loxton wrote: bought Jamil's yeast book, and I am sure it will answer all of these questions, but I have barely cracked it. If anyone wants to borrow it, I probably won't get around to reading it for a bit.