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Is 100 amp service enough for a single element electric setup? I know there are many variables but generally, is it enough? We're running the normal appliances (fridge, stove, washer, dryer, air exchange and well pump/pressure tank) and don't have an electric hot water heater.

I've run all that plus an electric hot water heater on a 100 amp service without issue, so I would say you should be OK. Usually 200 amp services are for when you have electric heat.

Same here.

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FWIW I'm on 100 amp and have no problems with my electric rig. I can't run my dryer at the same time though.

Jimmy wrote:Is 100 amp service enough for a single element electric setup? I know there are many variables but generally, is it enough? We're running the normal appliances (fridge, stove, washer, dryer, air exchange and well pump/pressure tank) and don't have an electric hot water heater.

Unless you had everything running in your house at the same time, you should be fine. And even if everything was being used at the same time, everything would have to be on and calling for heat (range, all burner, dryer, hot water, water pump starting, boil ketle, etc. at the exact same time in order to even get close.

Sweet, good news.

You will know when it's too much. I can tell you that the 100amp breaker makes a helluva bang when it trips!
You should be fine.

Assuming it's a breaker...

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It's really more what you have on the same sub breaker that you'll be running the brewery on. If it was done right, the sub breakers should trip first and the service breaker should never trip without a serious fault condition


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Further to that though, we were having issues with a 400A panel at work where the fuses would blow at about 380A. Turns out that particular manufacturer has a range of 80 to 130% or nominal trip current.... To which I say, wtf? That's a massive swing! Anyway, I think residential stuff is more predictable.


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Jayme wrote:It's really more what you have on the same sub breaker that you'll be running the brewery on. If it was done right, the sub breakers should trip first and the service breaker should never trip without a serious fault condition


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What do you mean by sub breaker? Isn't there just the 1 main 100A breaker, and then individual breakers (which I would consider the sub breakers) in the panel? Wouldn't the only thing on the "Sub breaker" be the brewery itself (heating element and pump)?

Jayme wrote:It's really more what you have on the same sub breaker that you'll be running the brewery on. If it was done right, the sub breakers should trip first and the service breaker should never trip without a serious fault condition


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Don't agree with that. You could pop the main fuse without a fault condition. Depends on how many circuits per main fuse/breaker.

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Jayme wrote:Further to that though, we were having issues with a 400A panel at work where the fuses would blow at about 380A. Turns out that particular manufacturer has a range of 80 to 130% or nominal trip current.... To which I say, wtf? That's a massive swing! Anyway, I think residential stuff is more predictable.


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By code, Fuses (and most breakers unless 100% rated) are only allowed to be loaded up to 80% of their rated value.

If it helps, I run my brewery on a dryer outlet that is on a dedicated 30A (sub)breaker

I would expect that Jimmy would either have a dedicated branch circuit and breaker for his kettle, or would share the dryer branch circuit. If sharing the dryer circuit, running both the dryer and boil kettle at the same time would most likely overload that circuit.

I'll be installing a separate 240v 30a GFCI for the brewery

Put it on the same cct as your dryer with an extension and you do away with the extra cct. Just can't dry cloths and brew.

Sandy

I'll likely need to do both at the same time. Becky does laundry on the weekend, typically when I'd be brewing.

Anyone have a 240v 30a GFCI for a Square D panel?