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Hey everyone,

Since my first batch ever I have been force carbonating my kegs. I have always sort of winged it and while I think the beer is properly carbonated at times I am not certain. Here is the general process I follow, please correct course where neccessary.

Seal Keg and connect to air line
Turn up regualator to 30 PSI
Roll keg on my knees back and forth approx 100 times
Leave pressure at 30 PSI for 48 hours
Reduce to 15 PSI
(side not keg is in fridge entire time)
connect liquid line and enjoy!

Thoughts? I am about to upgrade to a dual regulator and thought Id ask opinions before installing.
Also what does everyone else leave their constant pressure at for daily use?

***Edit I had a coffee and realized my PSI numbers made no sense, since corrected!

Thanks

Personally, I use the set it and forget it method. I simply set the regulator at 12 psi and leave it for a week. I find that it gives the most consistent results. Serving pressure for me is usually 8 psi.

I used to crash carb as you do and rolled a chilled keg too and fro with my foot on the floor at 30PSI. I don’t do that anymore.

Have a look at this online calculator: http://www.brewersfriend.com/keg-carbon ... alculator/ You’ll also find on that page recommended carbonation levels for some different styles. If you go by the calculator, you hook it up in the keezer at the recommended PSI for about a week. If you hook it up for two weeks, or even a month at that pressure the carbonation won’t go any higher, since the level of carbonation is determined by the temperature and the PSI of the CO2.

A beer that is carbonated at 1 volume per volume (commonly just referred to as “1 volume”), has 1 pint of CO2 dissolved in one pint of beer, 1 gallon of beer has a gallon of CO2 etc.

CO2 dissolves much more (more quickly and higher amounts) at lower temperature. It’s quite dramatic. There’s a graph somewhere, but I don’t know where to get an online version.

Edit: You edited your post after having your coffee, and it now appears you know all this stuff any way

Great thanks gents! That website is a great resource I appreciate it

If force carbing I also use the set it and forget it method, hooked up at serving pressure (10-12 PSI) for a week.

Otherwise, I prime in the keg with a bit of corn sugar and let it sit for a month.

I normally just "set and forget" as I find the "crank and shake" often leads to over carbed beer and it takes awhile to get it to come back down.

Shaking it @ 30psi AND leaving it 2days at 30psi seems like alot to me. When I'm in a hurry now I leave it at 30psi (no shaking) for 1-2days then drop back to serving 10-12psi for the last bit of carbonation (another 3-5days). Takes longer but rarely over carbs.

Keg priming is the way I go now.

mr x wrote:Keg priming is the way I go now.

^This

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You asked for “force carbonation and beyond”.

The way I go now is put the beer in kegs with dip tubes shortened by 1 1/2" after 5 – 7 days of fermentation, before it has finished fermenting. I’m going back in time 100 years, or just hopping across the pond to present day real ale in the UK, which is the drink of the majority there (cf. Coors Light in the US). Less fuss/effort, and also getting the full benefits of flavours from the yeast.

No problem if you don’t get it how you like it the first few times, maybe kegged to early or too late. If your carbonation is higher than you like, pull up the ring on the safety valve a few times. If it’s lower than you want, hook it up to CO2.

I like low carbonation, so I don't end up boosting.

Ps. I forgot to say, if you like the results from what you are doing at the moment, there is absolutely no need to change what you are doing.

I carbbed my last 2 kegs @ cold and set to 30 PSI for 36 hours, purge, then set to 6psi for serving. Carbonation is perfect.

keithforbes wrote:I carbbed my last 2 kegs @ cold and set to 30 PSI for 36 hours, purge, then set to 6psi for serving. Carbonation is perfect.

I used to do almost exactly the same as that, and worked for me as well.

I use the set it and forget it method.
NEVER CUT YOUR DIPTUBES!
First you lose more beer that way - if clarity is your concern - filter your beer.

Timothy Doane wrote:I use the set it and forget it method.
NEVER CUT YOUR DIPTUBES!
First you lose more beer that way - if clarity is your concern - filter your beer.

I haven't cut my diptubes, but I have filtered a few times. I'd gladly be willing to give up a little more beer (alot of it will be sediment anyway) for the sake of avoiding that hassle.

Timothy Doane wrote: NEVER CUT YOUR DIPTUBES!
First you lose more beer that way - if clarity is your concern - filter your beer.

We’re just brewing different kinds of beer. You’re making filtered beer and I’m making real ale. Shortening the dip tube is a standard thing with keg conditioned ale, as you want to draw the beer over the surface of a bed of yeast, and you have more yeast in the keg.

For people who don’t filter. The first glass or two that’s poured and is cloudy and gets wasted, is the same glass or two that’s left in the keg because of the shortened dip tube. It isn’t much that’s left behind because the bottom of the keg is hemispherical and further has a small well at the very bottom. That setup is designed for Coke and Pepsi.

I don’t have a vested interest in this. People can do what they want (and don’t need to be given orders in upper case). It’s what works for me, just like filtering works for you. Also I don’t want anyone to cut their dip tubes and then find it doesn’t suit them, as I’ll be in the dog house.

NEVER FILTER YOUR BEER! (sorry, couldn't resist )

Ha ha ha - lets move forward.

Another little luxury I found with shortened dip tubes…you know when you are pouring a glass of your favorite beer, the glass is nearly full and the keg blows. Not only is your best beer all gone, but the keg throws a slug of yeast into your last glass of it, adding insult to injury…well! that doesn’t happen with shortened dip tubes.

canuck wrote:Personally, I use the set it and forget it method. I simply set the regulator at 12 psi and leave it for a week. I find that it gives the most consistent results. Serving pressure for me is usually 8 psi.

LeafMan66_67 wrote:If force carbing I also use the set it and forget it method, hooked up at serving pressure (10-12 PSI) for a week.

Otherwise, I prime in the keg with a bit of corn sugar and let it sit for a month.

At what temperature are you guys carbonating at with your pressures please.

I need help. Much as I hate to, I'm force carbonating some beer for the Big Spruce competition.

When force carbing, keg is in fridge, so somewhere in the 40-42 degree range. There are charts for temp / pressure posted here somewhere, but I'm on my phone so it's harder to find.

Kegerator temp for me is currently 39F.

Thanks both, I tried the calculator/charts, and I don't like the results, too harsh for me at 2 vol. I was more interested in what people like/get away with.

For me it's not so much the volume of CO2 in the beer, it's more along the lines of the type or style of beer and the amount of CO2. If I'm drinking a Wheat or a lighter beer I love it just dancing with bubbles 2.5 volume of co2. If I'm drinking a brown or a fuller bodied beer I like it carb'd lower in around 1.3-1.6 volumes. (atleast if my calculations are right when I'm doing it haha).

As for a IPA it's fuller bodied, but I like a nice set of bubbles to go with it and like them slightly over carbd.

One thing I know however. Stout Bombs are a bastard to cleanup and would rather it flat. lol. This is what happens when you bottle early and don't adjust the priming sugars correctly.